During This year Gucci Fall Winter ‘18 show in Milan you imagined yourself to be in sterile operating room.
The show started by hearing squeaky noises from a cardiac monitoring machine and next on was the latin poem ‘Stabat Mater’. Some of the models were wearing copies of their head or small sleeping dragons in their hands instead of the usual bag or clutch. This all shook the audience and every last person got the shivers rolling down from their head to their back. This feeling of dislike was precisely what creative director Alessandro Michele wanted to accomplish with his show.
Alessandro wanted to show the world how delicate the border is between a fashion designer and a surgeon and how he actually is doing the same thing as surgeons in fashion. “My job is to invent possibilities” tells Alessandro after the show. Through reconstructing by cutting, pasting and tearing up pieces of material he forms a ‘new’ identity for those who wear it. The Gucci team was held for a great challenge prior to the show. Collaborating with specials effects company ‘Makinarium’ Alessandro and his team created lifelike heads, dragons and snakes which served as accessories for the models. Here he showed us everything is possible even if this means that we use our own head as an accessory. No one must be able to tell you what to do and how to do it. The Gucci FW18 show made clear to us that the creating our identity is a creative process which can terrify us nevertheless it reflects us as an individual at the same time.
We are all creators with specific needs and wishes. Ego and the individual is more centralised than ever before. Privacy and security is heavily discussed subject in society and we are gradually figuring out that we have to stand up for ourselves including our needs and wishes. We want to stand out from the crowd and decide ourselves who we are and what we become. By wearing certain clothes and by our behavior we want to shape our own identity. Alessandro confronted us on a cruel but simultaneously fascinating way with this evolution during the Gucci FW18 show.
The invitation was a timer counting down to the start of the show while showing the actual date of the show as a written warning. The show ended without a bow of Alessandro the designer or an extra round of the models. This left you with an empty unfinished feeling. Gucci FW18 is an experience that provides room to reflect on ourselves as an individual and how we form our own identity. The goal Alessandro set for his show.
Around me I see a change in the need to distinguish ourselves from others. We get a distinct style and are contrarian. We go against the current by wearing clothes that go against the standards. The Triple S sneakers from Balenciaga is one of the most popular models of today, Virgil Abloh (Off-White) makes a unique variation of the classic Nike models and more and more streetwear brands enter into collaborations with high fashion designers (Zalando x Viktor & Rolf , Adidas x Alexander Wang).
Due to these developments around individualism, privacy and safety, we can expect that the need to distinguish ourselves from the masses will continue to increase in the coming period.The fashion shows and collections of streetwear brands will therefore continue to show these needs.